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UPDATE: Saturday, June 12, 2010      The Japan Times Weekly    2004年12月18日号 (バックナンバー)
 
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LOST IN FRANCE

Joyeux Noel

By MARIKO KAWAGUCHI

Main streets are adorned with lights, garlands and wreaths, so are the facades of churches and town halls. Huge Christmas trees rise in main squares.

In big cities, department stores compete to lure in passers-by with beautiful show windows. And then mistletoe will be hung above the doors of houses.

It sounds like a typical December scene in Tokyo, New York, Hong Kong or Calcutta.

So where is the "French-ness" about Christmas in France?

I don't know much about French Christmases, but I do know that during this season, French people gorge on chunks of foie gras and chocolates, and knock back bottles of champagne; many French people don't go to Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve; and French children openly extort their parents for toys and sweets.

But then again, those things can happen anywhere.

In the end, the biggest difference may only be that the festival is called Noel in France instead of Christmas.

I've listed some keywords below to counterbalance my lopsided view.

One last thing I should add is that unlike in my country, young French couples don't have a romantic, candlelit Christmas Eve dinner nor is there a run on Louis Vuitton or other brand-name stores because before everything else, Noel is a time for family reunions (like oshogatsu in Japan).

Welcome to a French Christmas!

Buche de Noel: There used to be a Gallic tradition to bring a log to the house on Christmas Eve. It was placed in the fireplace or hearth and used for a ritual. Today, with more sophisticated heating systems, the only logs coming home are Buche de Noel -- a sweet, log-shape cake generously covered with chocolate or coffee cream, and sometimes filled with delicious mousse.

Creche: If you happen to be in France around Christmas, you'll probably see a creche somewhere near a church. Displaying the Nativity scene, this sort of manger (or crib) filled with tiny clay figurines (called santons, or little saints) of the Holy family, Magi and shepherds, etc., is especially popular in Provence.

Cadeaux: Like in many countries, children hang their stockings by the fireplace, so that Pere Noel (Santa Claus) will fill them with cadeaux (gifts) while they are sleeping.

Reveillon: For me this is the most important part of the festival. Reveillon (which means to wake up or to revive) is a huge dinner following Midnight Mass. The menu can vary according to regional culinary tradition (the famous ones are goose in Alsace, turkey with chestnuts in Burgundy, fresh oysters, foie gras and champagne in Paris, and 13 deserts in Provence, symbolizing Jesus Christ and his 12 apostles), but the spirit remains the same: to feast. Many people enjoy the meal at a restaurant or cafe that stays open all night.

St. Nicholas: Weeks before Christmas, cities and towns in France take on a cheery, festive mood. In some parts, the holiday season begins Dec. 6, the day of St. Nicholas, the blueprint saint of Santa Claus.

As for my Christmas, I want a dozen fresh oysters, foie gras and turkey with chestnuts, followed by Buche de Noel, chocolates and champagne. I wish that Pere Noel brings me the work visa that I have been waiting a whole year for in vain.

I'd welcome any comments or opinions, in Japanese or English, about my column. You can write or fax me at The Weekly, or e-mail me at jtweekly@japantimes.co.jp

The Japan Times Weekly: Dec. 18, 2004
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