In France, people have plunged headlong into the long-awaited annual migration period dubbed vacances.

Although it varies according to people's ages and professions, the vacance season in general runs from July through August, during which the whole country falls into a deep slumber -- until the regrettable wake-up time in September called rentree.

Except for my companion and me, that is. Because we run a holiday facility called chambres d'hote -- similar to an English B&B -- this is our busiest time of year.

A tide of vacationers flows into the quiet village of Auterive, taking our little three-room guesthouse by storm. People from all four corners of France (and other countries) arrive here every day -- many of them in cars stuffed with bicycles, ice coolers and squeaky children.

Summer is hot and dry in southeastern France. Because there is no air conditioning here, we recommend that guests jump into out little outdoor swimming pool as soon as they arrive.

At the poolside, I'm always surprised by our guests' passion for sunbathing. Many French women work hard under the scorching sun (unlike Japanese women who try to whiten their skin) to obtain their ideal complexion of dark almond or chocolate hues.

They long for darker skin because "it looks healthier, more attractive." Some go to tanning salons weeks ahead of summer to attract as much attention as possible on the beach. Another reason is that the tanned skin is evidence for that they have been en vacances (if a woman goes back to work in September with a pale face, the chances are she will be pitied by her co-workers). In any case, they hardly seem to care much about harmful ultra-violet rays.

To this facility full of such sun-worshippers, there recently came a most unexpected guest, equipped with anti-UV gloves: a young Japanese woman from Tokyo.

An editor of a well-known travel guide, she told me that she had come over from Koenji, Suginami-ku, to report on chambres-d'hote in the French countryside, especially those where Japanese is spoken.

The Koenji lady told me an unbelievable fact -- chambres-d'hote are becoming trendy among Japanese tourists, having been featured in fashionable women's magazines.

Although chambres-d'hote had never struck me as fashionable, I agree that they are often cozy, reasonable accommodation options with a higher value than few-starred hotels.

Prices and facilities at chambres-d'hote vary and they are rated by an official tourism entity called Gites de France by the number of ears of corn called epis. Our place, for example, is ranked three epis, because each room has its own bathroom and toilet.

Communication between travelers and hosts is considered the most important aspects of this type of family-run inn: if you have good hosts, they might introduce you to the region's beautiful sightseeing spots, offer you free yogurt in the morning (the breakfast, consisting of basics such as bread, butter, jam and coffee or tea, is included as part of the service), or chat with you in English.

Hosts like us prepare tables d'hote, a family dinner service where wine and dessert (or cheese) are included in the price.

In our region, the top-ranked cuisine is 1) canard (duck) and 2) canard as well as its variations like foie gras. As a result, we get overwhelmed by duck aroma all summer long.

If you're interested in local food and clean air rather than the fashionable side of France -- and finding out about chambres-d'hote -- don't hesitate to visit us (www.m.d.p.perso.cegetel.net).

I'd welcome any comments or opinions, in Japanese or English, about my column. You can write or fax me at The Weekly, or e-mail me at jtweekly@japantimes.co.jp

The Japan Times: Aug. 6, 2005
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